Until my first giddy tastes of Hamsa, I never appreciated what a gaping hole in Houston’s dining scene an ambitious Middle Eastern restaurant would fill. Salatim at Hamsa Annie Mulligan/Contributor The old-fashioned booths, the fried specialties and the folksy service make Gatlin’s a 2023 bookend to the ancient Barbecue Inn, just a block away. (It’s a savory wonder they ought to sell by the jar.) Other 21st-century touches liven the classic menu, from garlic-buttery grilled oysters to remarkable bread pudding with a tart boost of lemon. Talk about Old School: The new north side project from the Gatlin’s BBQ clan puts the family’s Louisiana Creole spin on Texas verities like crunchy fried chicken, supernal fried catfish and biscuits spiffed up with newfangled bacon jam. Spiced chicken cracklings, fried gizzards, glazed crispy chicken feet, smoked chicken liver pate, and spiced quail at Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers Becca Wright Note: If you cling to the notion that Mexican breakfast should be cheap, stay home. And the Nuevo-Wavo pan dulce is a kick, hiding troves of rich blackberry jam, cream cheese and cajeta. The menu’s dreamy, from spicy Huevos Motuleños to huitlacoche omelets to stout café lechero-style, hot milk poured into espresso from on high. Cucharita feels deeply charming, with its vibrant wall mural, mint-green furnishings and sidewalk tables clad in vintage florals. Mornings are more fun now that the folks from Cuchara, the Mexico-City-style Houston classic, have launched a breakfast spot and bakery just down the block.
SMASHBURGER YELP HOUSTON PLUS
Add a glass of serious muscadet that won’t break the bank, plus the kind of skillful service for which the mothership is known, and savor life in the big city. Fastidious halfshell oyster service, an amusingly upscaled fried grouper sandwich, and a crabcake crisp and delicate enough to write home about are among the highlights.
This seafood newcomer from the Bludorn team brings an invigorating shot of glamour to the Rice Village, where jazz sifts through a vast, moody space cleverly designed to humanize its scale. It’s a delight, from the chipper semi-serve counter to the airy roof deck from the impossibly lacy edges on the double-double cheeseburger to the boutique milkshakes made from serious Houston ice cream. This year’s comet is chef and Instagram influencer Abbas Dhanani’s colorful smashburger outpost, which doubles as a community-minded corner bodega selling locally made foodstuffs. The original Double Smash Burger at Burger Bodega Michael MaĮvery so often, if we’re lucky, a brilliant new burger spot bursts on the Houston scene. But each of them made my heart sing.Īnd a couple of honorable mentions (Moon Rabbit, Pacha Nikkei, I’m looking at you) left me curious to return for another taste in this new, hopeful year. Not every one of my picks dazzled me with rock-solid consistency, as they might have in simpler times.
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